Walking home last night, I was stopped by a policeman. I rarely see police on my street, and generally feel it is a safe neighborhood. However, my neighborhood is an exception to most of Nairobi, with many people living behind high walls and guarded gates.
The policeman asked me for my identification, where I was going, what I was doing, and where I lived. He said it wasn’t safe for me to be out (it was about 8PM) since there had been a mugging recently. I explained that I lived right around the corner and the people around here knew me, but said I would take his advice.
He then asked if I could provide him with some chai. I said that, sadly, I didn’t have a cup of tea on me. He then gently pulled me aside, away from the other guards, and asked, “Not even a 100 shillings?” I apologized and said I didn’t have anything on me except two shillings. He waved me on, not wanting to press the issue and yet probably thinking it highly probable that this mzungu didn’t even have a dollar on him.
I wonder if I would have given him the bribe. After all, I am constantly asked for money as I walk along the street. This time was different only because it was a policeman. He hadn’t threatened me or abused his power; he had just asked. He has a job and therefore is more fortunate than most Kenyans, yet his pay is barely more than the night watchman: about $200 per month.
The fight against corruption continues, although success is slow. According to Transparency International, each Kenyan pays an average of 16 bribes a month, with 41% of the bribes totaling over 50,000 Kshs ($700) each. I think those statistics are exaggerated yet even if they are a little bit true it's quite astounding.
I think the practice originates in the Kenyan/African custom of always having something to give to someone as a sign of appreciation. While no excuse for corruption, culture perspective is key to at least a partial understanding of why the trend is so rampant.
Click here for more information about corruption in Kenya.
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